"Stop! Look - fresh pugmarks."

Karin our naturalist stopped the vehicle and jumped to the ground. Using a twig to outline the pug mark, he announced it was a male tiger cub. He went on to explain that if the pugmark is square in shape this indicates a male, and had it been more rectangular in size, a female. This first lesson of tracking was eagerly received by Karin's attentive class in the back of the jeep.

This was the very beginning of our morning game drive with Karen, an expert naturalist with Taj Safaris, at Mahua Kothi Camp at Bandhavgarh National Park. The air was crisp and fresh on this early winter morning, but also now charged with an incredible buzz and anticipation. My heart was definitely beating faster.

As we turned the next corner, I took a sharp intake of breath. A male tiger cub was awakening from the sandy track - the heavy morning dew coats the forest floor in a wet blanket thus making it an uncomfortable bed. The tiger was awakened not by the sound of our presence, but the appearance of a group of young chital deer innocently unaware of the tiger. We sat in silence, in total awe of this majestic creature as it slipped into the forest.

Such magnificent experiences in India's Tiger Reserves have been enhanced and brought alive through the education of local guides by CC Africa Head naturalists. The tigers are the undoubted stars of the show but the guides are the supporting actors who emphasise the majesty of the tiger.

CC Africa will soon be able to offer a Taj Safari tiger circuit in Madhya Pradesh linking Panna, Pench , Kanha and Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserves.

Currently open are Baghvan, in Pench National Park and Mahua Kothi in Bandhavgarh. Later in 2008 Panna and Kanha will follow. On completion, Taj Safaris will have an impressive circuit of the tiger parks with consistent high levels of 5 star luxury, attentive staff and wildlife guiding. What more could one wish for than spotting a tiger, returning to your luxury camp for a hot bath and then settling in around the dinner to regale the day's thrilling sighting! Heaven is to be found in the heart of India!

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Steppes Travel specialise in luxury holidays, and tailor made holidays